YOUR FREE

PHOTOGRAPHY

TRAINING AREA

  • First and Secend Flash & Flash Gun

    First and second curtain flash sync refers to the timing of the flash relative to the opening and closing of the camera's shutter.

    In first curtain sync (also called front curtain sync), the flash is triggered at the beginning of the exposure, as the shutter's first curtain moves out of the way to expose the film or image sensor. This is the default sync mode for most cameras, and it is often used for general-purpose flash photography.

    In second curtain sync (also called rear curtain sync), the flash is triggered just before the shutter's second curtain closes to end the exposure. This can create a trailing effect in which the subject appears to be moving through the frame, with a trail of light behind them. Second curtain sync is often used for creative purposes, such as to create a sense of motion in a photograph or to capture the trail of light from a moving vehicle.

    By selecting the appropriate sync mode, photographers can control the way that flash and ambient light are combined in their photographs.

    Flashguns, also known as speedlights or hotshoe flashes, are portable flash units that can be mounted on the hot shoe (a mount on top of the camera) or used off-camera. Most flashguns have a number of different operating modes that allow photographers to control how the flash behaves and to achieve a desired lighting effect. Some common flash modes include:

    1: Manual mode: In this mode, the photographer sets the flash power manually, using a dial or button on the flash unit. This allows precise control over the amount of light output, but requires the photographer to make adjustments manually.

    2: Automatic mode: In this mode, the flash calculates the correct flash power based on the distance to the subject and the ISO and aperture settings of the camera. This is a convenient mode for beginners, but it may not always produce the desired lighting effect.

    3: TTL (through-the-lens) mode: In this mode, the flash communicates with the camera and uses information from the camera's metering system to calculate the correct flash power. This allows for precise flash exposure, but may not be as flexible as manual mode.

    4: Off-camera flash mode: This mode allows the flash to be used off-camera, either wirelessly or with a physical sync cord. This allows the photographer to place the flash in a different location than the camera, which can create more dynamic lighting effects.

    5: Multiple flash mode: This mode allows the photographer to use multiple flash units together, either in a single exposure or in a series of exposures. This can be useful for lighting large groups or for creating complex lighting setups.

  • Lighting Grid and Light Temperature

    A lighting grid is a series of metal rods or tubes that are used to hold and shape a softbox or other light modifier. The grid is placed over the front of the softbox, and the size and spacing of the grid cells determines how much light is transmitted and in what pattern. Grids are often used to control the spread of light and to create more directional lighting, which is useful for separating the subject from the background or for creating specific lighting effects.

    Light temperature, or colour temperature, refers to the hue of a light source and is measured in degrees Kelvin (K). Different light sources have different colour temperatures, and the colour temperature of a light source can have a significant impact on the overall look and feel of a photograph.

    For example, light sources with a low colour temperature (e.g. 2500-3000K) tend to have a warm, orange hue and are often used to create a cosy, intimate atmosphere. On the other hand, light sources with a high colour temperature (e.g. 5000-6500K) tend to have a cool, blue hue and are often used to create a crisp, clinical look.

    By using grids and adjusting the colour temperature of the light sources, photographers can fine-tune the lighting in their photographs to create the desired effect.

  • Off Camera Flash

    Off-camera flash is a technique used by photographers to create more dynamic and professional-looking lighting in their photographs. It involves using a separate flash unit that is not attached to the camera, allowing the photographer to position the light source wherever they want in relation to the subject. This allows for more creative control over the lighting and can result in more natural-looking photographs, especially in situations where the available light is not ideal.

    Using off-camera flash can be particularly useful for wedding photographers, as it allows them to create more flattering and natural-looking lighting for the bride and groom, as well as for other important details like the dress, flowers, and decor. It can also be helpful in low light situations, such as during the reception, where the photographer may not have enough ambient light to get a well-exposed photograph.

    To use off-camera flash, the photographer will typically set up the flash unit on a light stand or use a wireless trigger to remotely control the flash. They will then adjust the power and angle of the flash to achieve the desired lighting effect. Off-camera flash can be used in combination with natural light or other artificial light sources to create a wide range of lighting effects.

    There are many different settings that you can adjust when using off-camera flash, and the specific settings will depend on your camera and flash unit. Here are some common settings that you may want to consider:

    1: SO: This is a measure of your camera's sensitivity to light. Higher ISO values will allow you to use a faster shutter speed or aperture, which can be useful in low light situations.

    2: Aperture: This is the size of the camera's lens opening, and it controls the amount of light that enters the camera. A larger aperture (smaller f-stop number) will let in more light, while a smaller aperture (larger f-stop number) will let in less light.

    3: Shutter speed: This is the length of time that the camera's shutter is open, and it also controls the amount of light that enters the camera. A faster shutter speed will allow you to freeze action, while a slower shutter speed will create a blur effect.

    4: Flash power: This controls the intensity of the flash. A higher flash power will produce more light, while a lower flash power will produce less light.

    5: Flash-to-subject distance: The distance between the flash and the subject can also affect the lighting. A flash that is closer to the subject will produce a harder, more directional light, while a flash that is further away will produce a softer, more diffused light

    6: Flash angle: The angle at which the flash is pointed can also affect the lighting. Pointing the flash directly at the subject will produce a harsh, direct light while pointing the flash at an angle will produce a softer, more diffused light.

    7: Flash zoom: Some flash units have a zoom function that allows you to control the size of the light beam. A wider beam will cover a larger area, while a narrower beam will be more focused.

    8: Flash mode: There are several different flash modes that you can use, including manual, automatic, and TTL (through-the-lens). Each mode will affect how the flash is triggered and how the light is output.

  • Creative Lighting

    Creative lighting in photography refers to the use of light in a way that enhances the artistic qualities of a photograph. This can be achieved through the use of a variety of techniques, such as using light sources with different colour temperatures, playing with shadows and contrast, or using creative lighting patterns. Some examples of creative lighting techniques include:

    1: Silhouetting: This is when the subject of the photograph is backlit, creating a dramatic, high-contrast image where the subject appears as a silhouette.

    2: Rim lighting: This is when a light source is placed behind the subject, creating a halo of light around the edges of the subject.

    3: Split lighting: This is when a light source is placed to one side of the subject, creating a split between the lit and shadowed areas of the face.

    4: Rembrandt lighting: This is a lighting pattern that features a triangle of light on the cheek opposite the light source.

    5: Loop lighting: This is a lighting pattern that features a shadow under the nose that loops down to the cheek on the shadowed side of the face.

    By experimenting with these and other creative lighting techniques, photographers can add depth, interest, and emotion to their photographs.

    There are many different light sources that photographers can use to achieve a desired look or effect in their photographs. Some common types of light sources include:

    1: Natural light: This includes light from the sun, moon, and other sources that occur naturally in the environment. Photographers can use natural light to create soft, diffuse light, or to capture the quality of light at a specific time of day or in a specific location.

    2: Studio lighting: This refers to light sources that are set up and controlled by the photographer, typically in a studio setting. Studio lighting can include continuous light sources, such as tungsten or fluorescent bulbs, or flash units that produce a brief burst of light.

    3: Speedlights or hotshoe flashes: These are small, portable flash units that can be mounted on the hot shoe (a mount on top of the camera) or used off-camera. They are often used to add fill light or to create a specific lighting effect.

    4: LED lights: These are energy-efficient light sources that produce little heat and can be dimmed or adjusted to a specific colour temperature. They are often used in video production and can be helpful for photographers who want a portable, adjustable light source.

    5: Gels: These are coloured filters that can be placed over a light source to change its colour temperature or hue. Gels are often used to create specific lighting effects or to match the light source to the ambient light in a scene.

    By using a variety of light sources and techniques, photographers can achieve a wide range of looks and effects in their photographs.

  • Bride and Groom Portraits

    As a wedding photographer, it's important to capture beautiful, romantic portraits of the bride and groom. Here are some tips for taking great bride and groom portraits:

    1: Choose a beautiful location: Look for a spot with exciting backgrounds and good lighting. This could be a park, beach, garden, or even an indoor location with exciting architecture or decor.

    2: Get close: Don't be afraid to get close to your subjects and fill the frame with their faces. This will create a more intimate and romantic feel.

    3: Use natural light: If possible, try to use natural light rather than flash. This will create softer, more flattering light on the faces of the bride and groom.

    4: Experiment with poses: Try a variety of poses to capture different emotions and expressions. This could include traditional postures, such as the couple standing together with their arms around each other, or more creative postures, such as the couple walking hand in hand or looking into each other's eyes.

    5: Capture candid moments: In addition to posed shots, try to capture candid moments between the bride and groom. These types of shots can be very natural and romantic and can help tell the story of their relationship.

    6: Edit and retouch: In post-processing, make any necessary exposure and colour adjustments, and consider retouching any blemishes or distracting elements in the background.

  • Dance Floor Fun and Engaging Photography

    To capture the fun and engaging dance floor shots at a wedding, try the following tips:

    1: Get close to the action: Position yourself close to the dance floor so you can capture the energy and excitement of the dancing.

    2: Use a fast shutter speed: To freeze the action and avoid blurry shots, use a fast shutter speed of at least 1/125th of a second.

    3: Experiment with angles: Try shooting from different angles to add visual interest to your shots. This could include shooting from above, below, or from the side.

    4: Capture candid moments: In addition to traditional posed shots of the wedding party and guests dancing, try to capture candid moments of people enjoying themselves on the dance floor.

    5: Edit and retouch: In post-processing, make any necessary exposure and colour adjustments, and consider retouching any blemishes or distracting elements in the background.

  • Behind the Group

    As a wedding photographer, it's important to capture a variety of photos during the wedding day, including group shots of the wedding party and guests. Here are some tips for taking great group photographs as a wedding photographer:

    1: Plan ahead: Before the wedding day, communicate with the couple about their desired group shots and make a list of the groupings you will need to photograph. This will help you stay organized and ensure you don't forget any important shots.

    2: Use a tripod: A tripod will help you keep your camera steady and ensure that the shots are in focus. This is especially important when taking group photographs, as there will be many people in the frame.

    3: Choose a good location: Look for a spot with even lighting and a clean, uncluttered background. Avoid areas with strong backlighting or harsh shadows.

    4: Pose the group: Position the tallest people in the back and the shortest in the front to create a balanced composition. Encourage the group to relax and try to capture natural expressions.

    5: Take multiple shots: It's always a good idea to take multiple shots of each group to ensure you get a good one. This is especially important with larger groups, as it can be harder to get everyone looking at the camera and smiling at the same time.

    6: Edit and retouch: In post-processing, make any necessary exposure and colour adjustments, and consider retouching any blemishes or distracting elements in the background.

  • Group Shot List for Photographers

    Here is a sample list of group shots that a wedding photographer may want to consider capturing:

    1:The entire wedding party

    2: Just the bridesmaids

    3:Just the groomsmen

    4:Both sets of parents

    5:The bride with her bridesmaids and mother

    6:The groom with his groomsmen and father

    7:The bride and groom with their grandparents

    8: The bride and groom with their entire extended family

    9: The bride and groom with their wedding party and both sets of parents

    It's a good idea to discuss the group shots that the couple wants with them in advance and make a list of the groups that should be included in the photoshoot. This will ensure that you don't miss any important shots and that the couple has a complete set of group photos to remember their special day.

  • Behind the Scene

    As a wedding photographer, there are many tasks that take place behind the scenes to ensure a successful photoshoot. Some examples of these tasks include:

    1:Pre-wedding consultations: Meeting with the couple to discuss their vision for their wedding photos and ironing out the details of the photoshoot.

    2: Scouting locations: Visiting the ceremony and reception venues in advance to plan for the best places to take photos and to familiarize oneself with the layout.

    3: equipment setup: Setting up and testing all of the necessary camera and lighting equipment before the wedding day.

    4: Shooting: Capturing a variety of candid and posed shots throughout the wedding day, including the ceremony, reception, and any other events.

    5: Post-processing: Reviewing and editing the photos after the wedding to ensure they are of the highest quality and meet the couple's expectations.

    6: Album design: Designing and creating a wedding album for the couple to treasure for years to come.

    Overall, being a wedding photographer involves a lot of planning, attention to detail, and creativity to ensure that the final photos are beautiful and timeless.